ALPACA
HUSBANDRY HINTS
Vaccination
Calendar for 2001
At the start of each new year we like to make a single page calendar for
the new year listing the vaccination times for each alpaca on the
property. Under the heading for each month we list the names of all
alpacas requiring vaccinations in that month. Since we booster each pregnant female approximately 4-6 weeks prior to giving birth, this
entails checking the last breeding date for each mother-to-be and making
sure that her name appears on the vaccination schedule approximately 10
months later unless she has a record of giving at much shorter or longer
gestation times than normal. The color of ink in which the alpaca’s name
is written can indicate the type of vaccine to be used.
We keep this calendar at the very front of our animal health records
book and make a point to check it at the first of each month for vaccinations that need to be made in the next 30 days. All crias and
new animals are added to the schedule as they arrive. Other routine
health procedures (i.e., deworming, Vitamin D) can be included on the
same calendar page or have their own separate calendar page.
Sample
2001 Vaccination & Vitamin D Schedule
|
|
blue=Covexin
8 red=CD/TT
green=Vit. A & D
|
| January |
February |
March |
April |
|
10-16th
Maisey
Marcie
I.B.
18th
Grem
Andy
ET
Topper
Last Week of
January
All crias of 2000
All pgnt. ladies |
(none) |
26th
Shanney
28th
Bonnie
Trinket |
18th
Tiara
21st
Adora |
| May |
June |
July |
August |
6th
Emily
23rd
Gaiety |
7th
Ramona
22nd
Buffy |
4th
Bella
Magic
6th
Maggie
9th
Reg |
7th
Marlie
9th
Renee
15th
Mo
Jewel |
| September |
October |
November |
December |
| (none) |
27th
Benje
Bo
Dream
Peppi |
18-20th
Melody
Willy
Shine
Bounty
28th
Migo
Toy
Last
Wk. of Nov:
All crias of 2001
All pgnt ladies |
19th
Bre
Bunky
Twinkle
27th
Eve
Ambi
Trudie
Tiff |
Better
Than a Pocket for Carrying Filled Syringes
This winter while giving round the clock injections of three medications
to an ailing alpaca, we discovered a better way for carrying filled
syringes while single handedly catching and holding an alpaca. We just
place the filled syringes under a fleece ear warmer band. This allows
both arms free for catching the animal, keeps the contents well above
freezing temperature and eliminates the possibility of accidentally
expelling part of the contents of a syringe when moving about as can
happen with a syringe in a pocket. The syringe is easily retrieved when
needed with one hand, and we have not dropped a single syringe carried
this way (yet). It works so well that we are thinking of designing a
warm weather variety for summer use.
Halter
Breaking Young Groupies
Alpacas are naturally herd animals and are usually happiest when part of
a group. When halter breaking older crias and weanlings, we try to make
it easier by doing it in small groups: moms with crias and then crias
with their buddies. We like to start with youngsters that are 2-4 weeks
shy of weaning, quietly fit them with halters and let them wear the
halters for an hour or so a day for a few days while they get accustomed
to wearing the halters and being haltered and unhaltered. Since all of
our moms are halter broken, the next step is to halter the mom and
attach a lead to the cria’s halter. The cria’s lead should be long
enough to let him follow at his mom’s flank. The mom is then led and
the cria will often follow her. If that happens, we will just take a
little walk right away with no pressure on the cria’s lead. If the cria
resists following the mom, we will try a little bit of pull and release
on the cria’s lead. Once through the gate and out of her home quarters,
the cria may be more interested in sticking close to mom as she is led.
A more resistant cria is given more coaxing plus patience. In some cases
an additional person at the cria’s rear or a rump rope (second rope
encircling the cria’s rear and held by the handler) will encourage the
cria to more forward. From the very first we prefer to go out in pairs:
two human handlers each with a mom and cria pair in tow. We try to get
each set of pairs away from “home” and out of sight of the other alpacas
but stick to the driveway or easy pathway. After a successful short
outing or two, we will venture a bit farther and vary the terrain. If we
have several youngsters to start at one time, we like to take crias that
are buddies out together and avoid taking out two that are very timid or
resistive at the same time.
If a cria’s mom is not halter broken, a well broken yearling or adult
female from the same living group may be paired with the cria. If there
is no suitable substitute, we have been successful with one person
taking the single cria on a lead and letting it follow along side of a
familiar mom and cria pair that is being led by a second person. If this
proves too stressful for the single cria, his lessons might be delayed
until after he is weaned at which time he might be paired with a well
behaved weanling of older animal.
We like to take all of our crias out for at least 3-4 walks at the sides
of their dams (or substitute leaders) before weaning time. A week or so
following weaning, we resume our walks in the groupie style, but now
each handler takes a pair of weanlings or a weanling and an older alpaca
other than its mom. If the new weanlings are skittish without their
moms, we will be happy with a short driveway walk the first day and
gradually increase the duration and difficulty of the terrain. We will
aim or at least 2-3 walks in the week of resumed training. Progress at
this point will depend on the dispositions of the individual weanlings
and the amount of time that can be allotted to them. Some will have
learned to enjoy going out while at their dam’s side and be great fun
while a very timid fellow might only be able to handle following behind
his best buddy or wearing a rump rope for many weeks. As the weanlings
progress, we like to vary the outings, taking in new scenery and uneven
terrain where we can go over, under and around natural obstacles.
Go to Current
Alpaca Husbandry Hints or for past hints, go to our Alpaca Husbandry
Hints Archives.
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